In This Case? TFTB Was Done Before TFTT
The Top Left picture shows Rumi's trimmed foot after I trimmed it from the bottom and before I trimmed it from the top.
What's interesting is that even though I had a well defined lower bevel, when Rumi weights his foot, the wall distorts slightly under pressure and the bevel disappears. When I pick that foot up, the wall relaxes and the bevel is visible again.
These walls are malleable, and particularly when the walls are soft and moist, the walls flex and adjust to the surface the horse is standing standing on.
TFTT As I Do It
My approach to Trim From The Top is to use an upper bevel the remove imbalance and to thin the wall slightly so that the area I bevel wears to the ground in approximately 5 weeks.
If a horse has pigeon toes or other imbalance in how they wear their walls, I thin the wall a little more where wall accumulates so that the wall wears evenly through the trim cycle.
Why I Keep My Bevel Low - Boots Stay on!
Some trimmers rasp the whole wall to remove flair, some have a very high and dubbed edge... there are all sorts of ways of dressing the wall, and I don't know that one way is better than any other.
I keep mine low, typically 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the ground, because I like to see where the wall would be without my interference.
I also avoid rasping above this point because more wall surface fills out the boots better and adds to the surface tension that I feel is essential to great boot fit.
My Theory On Why "Dubbed" Toes Are Hard To Boot
I have a dear friend who trims differently than I do and has failure after failure with booting, and she blames it, intermittently, on the boots and her wet climate.
Boots aren't perfect, and a wet, muddy climate does change how boots stay on, but I have rain and mud here and almost no problems.
So I started thinking about why boots work so well for me that I can do hard trail rides in EasyCare Glue on shells with no glue, or Gloves that are a size too big, when she can't get the Gloves to work for her when they fit snug.
I have had trouble fitting boots for people who get a regular farrier trim because when the wall edge is over-long and flared, the boot to wall contact is only tight at the base of the wall, its loose above the base so the boots spin on the hoof.
Similarly, when the wall is beveled high ("dubbed") the boots contact with the wall starts up high on the wall, so the contact isn't acceptable, and again, the hoof turns in the boot.
When the hoof doesn't fill out the boot, the boot can bend and distort at the toe, allowing the toe of the hoof to push back. Or that's my theory! |